“This date loaf is inspired by a multitude of things,” says chef Noor Murad. “The idea landed while eating a Welsh bara brith, similar to an English tea loaf, where dried fruit is soaked in tea to create a bread loaf that’s then sliced and slathered in butter. I knew then that this would be the perfect template for a cardamom date cake, which I had wanted to include in [cookbook] Lugma somehow.
“Then there’s the topping, which sets this loaf apart in a very lovely way. The combination of fennel, sesame and nigella seeds is often sprinkled onto khobez hamar, a type of date-based flatbread made in Bahrain but perfected in Al-Ahsa in eastern Saudi Arabia. This really is a special loaf, so easy to make and one that improves with time, so make it a day before you want to serve it if you can. I like to have it drizzled with tahini and date molasses, which is quite rich, so feel free to just spread it with lashings of salted butter.”
Ingredients:
(Serves 8)
320g pitted Medjool dates, finely chopped
400ml boiling-hot strong brewed tea
1tsp bicarbonate of soda (baking soda)
110g olive oil (by weight not volume), plus extra for greasing
140g dark soft brown sugar
2 eggs
2tbsp date molasses
275g plain (all-purpose) flour, sifted
1tsp baking powder
Seeds from 25 cardamom pods, finely crushed using a pestle and mortar
1⁄4tsp fine sea salt
For the topping:
1tbsp sesame seeds
1tsp fennel seeds, roughly crushed using a pestle and mortar
1tsp nigella seeds
To serve:
Tahini or salted softened butter
Date molasses
Method:
1. Put the dates in a medium heatproof bowl and add the tea and bicarbonate of soda. Mix to combine and set aside to soften for 20 minutes.
2. Preheat the oven to 170°C fan/190°C/375°F/Gas mark 5. Grease and line the base and sides of a standard one litre loaf tin (about 23 x 13 x 6 centimetres) with a piece of baking paper.
3. In a large bowl, vigorously whisk together the oil, sugar, eggs and molasses until smooth, aerated and without lumps, about two minutes.
4. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, cardamom and salt.
5. Use a fork (or your hands) to roughly mash the dates into the tea, then whisk this into the sugar mixture until combined. Switch to a spatula and gently fold in the flour mixture, just until evenly combined (do not overmix). Transfer the mixture to the prepared tin and place it on a baking tray. Sprinkle the top with the sesame, fennel and nigella seeds, then bake on the middle rack of your oven for 65-70 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Check your loaf at the 35-minute mark; if it looks too dark on top, cover loosely with foil. When ready, lift the loaf out the tin using the baking paper to help you and leave to cool completely on a wire rack.
6 Serve sliced with a drizzle of tahini or a generous amount of softened butter, followed by some date molasses.
Lugma by Noor Murad is published by Quadrille, priced £28. Photography by Matt Russell. Available now.
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