Michael Kors celebrates 45 years of classic tailoring at New York Fashion Week

Michael Kors marked its 45th anniversary at New York Fashion Week with a glamourous collection that channelled old New York with fluid tailoring and feather trims.

Staged at the Metropolitan Opera House at Lincoln Center, beneath glittering chandeliers and gold-leaf ceilings, the autumn/winter 2026 show reflected the Long Island-born designer’s longevity and his continued reinvention.

Only Ralph Lauren and Norma Kamali on the current New York schedule have been designing longer than the 66-year-old founder.

Speaking ahead of the show, Kors attributed his four-and-a-half decades in fashion to being “consistent and inconsistent at the same time” – maintaining recognisable signatures while continually evolving. He drew parallels between his own trajectory and that of his adopted city.

“New York is about resilience, strength, grit,” said Kors, as well as glamour and opulence, and balancing these two states is what continues to inform the designer.

That duality was evident on the runway.

Tailoring – long a cornerstone of the brand – was softened for the new season. Traditional grey flannel blazers were reworked with elongated, bias-cut pocket details that trailed from the hips, creating unexpected movement.

Trousers that appeared classic from the front revealed skirted backs and subtle trains as models descended the Opera House staircase, introducing drama without sacrificing wearability.

Layering was central to the collection. Black turtlenecks – one of Kors’ most enduring staples – were reimagined in lighter constructions, some appearing as dickeys designed to create depth without bulk.

“I love layering without making people feel heavy,” the designer told Vogue.

Cream coats, crisp white shirts and polo necks – pillars of the Michael Kors wardrobe since the label’s launch in 1981 – formed the foundation of the line-up, reinforcing the timeless pieces that have defined the brand’s identity.

But there was also embellishment.

Rather than limiting sparkle to evening gowns, feathers and paillettes were applied to T-shirts, button-down shirts and pleated trousers, combining high-end glamour with everyday practicality.

Feather trims, which have surfaced across several recent runways including Chanel and Victoria Beckham, appeared on accessories and garments alike, suggesting the detail may rival fur as next winter’s statement finish.

Cashmere sweater dresses and monochromatic knitwear reinforced the collection’s “no-nonsense chic” spirit, while long leather gloves – another recurring motif on autumn runways – lent a sense of old-school sophistication to structured coats and tailored separates.

Models including Alex Consani and Christy Turlington walked the runway, as Dakota Fanning, Leslie Bibb and Nicole Scherzinger watched from the front row, alongside Condé Nast chief content officer, Anna Wintour.

The anniversary show arrives at a significant moment for the business. Earlier this month, Capri Holdings, the parent company of Michael Kors, reported a 5.6% drop in brand sales during the holiday quarter, citing reduced promotional activity. Michael Kors accounts for more than 80% of Capri’s overall revenue.

Yet on the runway, the atmosphere was assured rather than cautious.

Kors’ signature high-low philosophy – combining plush textures with accessible silhouettes – remained central, whether through sequinned tops paired with tailored trousers or feathered accents offset by practical knitwear.

As the show concluded, guests later gathered for an after-party where singer Rufus Wainwright performed “New York State of Mind” – a fitting tribute to the city that has shaped the designer’s identity.

For autumn/winter 2026, Kors reaffirmed his belief in streamlined elegance. 45 years on, his formula of structure, understatement and a touch of sparkle continues to resonate.