London Fashion Week returns with comebacks and new talent

London Fashion Week underwent a significant and closely watched revival last season following the appointment of the British Fashion Council’s new chief executive, Laura Weir, and it doesn’t appear to be slowing down.

Since stepping into the role in April 2025, the former editor moved quickly: scrapping the five-figure off-schedule fees that had edged out smaller brands; securing a three-year extension of Newgen funding; and expanding the international guest programme to coax heavyweight buyers and press back to the capital.

The spring/summer 2026 season back in September suggested those changes were working.

H&M opened proceedings with a celebrity-heavy show featuring the likes of Emily Ratajkowski and Romeo Beckham at 180 The Strand, milestone anniversaries were marked, emerging designers made assured debuts and Burberry closed in Kensington Gardens with a festival-themed finale watched live by the likes of Sir Elton John, Olivia Dean, Joanna Lumley and Jennifer Saunders. The front row looked more like a Brit Awards guest list, signalling a renewed pull for the week.

Now comes the hard part for autumn/winter 2026: sustaining it.

This season promises a schedule that combines dependable pillars, long-awaited returns and the left-field energy only London can deliver.

Industry insiders say the focus remains on balancing creativity with commercial viability. So, here’s what to expect from London Fashion Week.

Newcomers

As ever, Central Saint Martins will fire the starting gun, unleashing its MA graduates onto the runway with all the unfiltered audacity that it entails. It remains one of the week’s most essential fixtures – having debuted the likes of Stella McCartney and Lee McQueen back in the early 1990s.

Fashion East will also introduce a new addition to its line-up alongside its existing designers, continuing its track record as a launchpad for future headline names.

Among the most-anticipated first-timers is Ronan Mckenzie, the photographer-turned-designer who will present her label Selasi on schedule after a year devoted solely to refining the brand.

Liza Keane, whose designs have attracted a growing celebrity following such as Julia Fox, will also make her official debut.

There’s international interest too. Sanjay Garg’s Raw Mango will bring its textile-focused aesthetic to London, adding a broader global perspective to a week often defined by British labels.

The inclusion reflects London’s ongoing effort to position itself as an outward-facing fashion capital despite economic pressures at home.

Designers returning to London

Comebacks are often where the drama lies.

Julien Macdonald is reportedly staging an ambitious return in one of the capital’s tallest buildings, the Shard, a move that feels entirely on brand for a designer who has never been shy of the spotlight.

Joseph, meanwhile, re-enters the conversation under new creative director Mario Arena. Once synonymous with understated minimalism of the 1990s, the label now has an opportunity to reassert itself for a new generation.

Karoline Vitto will also return to the schedule, bringing her commitment to size-inclusive casting and body-positive design back to the runway.

Her presence comes amid ongoing industry discussion around representation and shifting body standards, including debate around the use of weight-loss medications such as Ozempic. Her casting choices are likely to draw particular attention in the current climate.

London faithfuls

If London’s strength lies in discovery, it also depends on those who show up season after season.

Burberry, Erdem, Emilia Wickstead and Richard Quinn remain as some of the biggest British labels on the schedule, while Paul Costelloe will be showing its first collection since its founder passed away last November.

Meanwhile, designers such as Talia Byre, Oscar Ouyang, Tolu Coker and Jawara Alleyne continue to build steadily, their reputations cementing collection by collection.

Chopova Lowena, following a period of international growth, is expanding its seasonal output with a dedicated autumn presentation.

Some designers are opting for lookbooks rather than full-scale runway shows, such as Phoebe English and Princess of Wales’ favourite Alessandra Rich, a pragmatic reminder that creative ambition must often coexist with financial reality.

While fashion is still grappling with inflation and shifting shopping habits, flexibility remains essential. For the British Fashion Council, the coming season will serve as an important indicator of whether last year’s revival marks a lasting reset or a temporary uplift.