Ilhan Mohamed Abdi’s Somali dinner rolls

“If there’s one thing I’m always expected to show up with, it’s these dinner rolls. Whether it’s iftar [fast-breaking evening meal], a family gathering or just an excuse to share a meal, this is what I bring,” says food writer Ilhan Mohamed Abdi. “They’re unbelievably soft and pillowy, and the garlic butter on top takes them somewhere special. They’re also incredibly forgiving. I’ve made them with wholemeal (wholewheat) flour, added cheese, thrown in seeds and even used them as burger or hotdog buns. Whatever I do, they still work. With any luck, these will be the softest, most reliable rolls you’ll ever bake.”

Ilhan Mohamed Abdi’s Somali dinner rolls

Ingredients
(Makes 12-16)

250ml milk, warmed
2tbsp granulated sugar
1tbsp fast-action dried yeast
1 egg
50g/3½tbsp unsalted butter, softened, plus 3tbsp melted butter, for brushing
1tsp salt
400g plain (all-purpose) flour, plus extra for dusting and if needed

For the garlic butter:
2tbsp unsalted butter, melted
3 garlic cloves, minced
1tbsp fresh parsley, finely chopped
Flaky sea salt, to finish

Equipment
23 x 30-cm/9 x 12-inch baking tray, lightly oiled

Method

1. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the warm milk, sugar and yeast until the mixture begins to froth slightly. Leave it to rest for 5 minutes to activate the yeast.

2. Add the egg to the mixture and mix until combined. Stir in the softened butter and salt, followed by half of the flour, and mix until incorporated. Add the remaining flour and mix until a rough dough forms. If the dough feels too wet to knead, add a tablespoon of flour at a time, mixing gently, until the dough comes together. It should be soft and slightly sticky, but manageable. Be careful not to over-add flour, as this can result in a dense dough.

3. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead by hand until it becomes smooth and elastic. To test if it’s ready, gently poke the dough; if it slowly bounces back, it’s ready to rise.

4. Lightly oil the dough and place it in a clean mixing bowl. Cover and let it rise in a warm place until doubled in size. Once risen, gently press the air out of the dough in the bowl. Fold the dough on itself a few times to create layers, then carefully shape it back into a ball without additional kneading.

5. Divide the dough into 12–16 equal pieces. Slightly flatten each piece, folding and pinching underneath to form a smooth ball, then roll gently in your palm to finish shaping. Arrange the dough balls on the greased baking tray. Cover and leave to rise again for 30 minutes.

6. Preheat the oven to 180°C fan/200°C/400°F/gas mark 6.

7. Brush the tops of the rolls with some melted butter and place them in the oven. Bake for 20–25 minutes, or until golden brown, rotating the tray halfway through, if needed, for even colouring.

8. While the rolls bake, combine the melted butter, garlic and parsley in a small bowl. When the rolls come out of the oven, brush them generously with the garlic butter and sprinkle with flaky sea salt. Serve warm.

The Ramadan Kitchen: Nourishing Recipes from Fast to Feast by Ilhan Mohamed Abdi is published in hardback by Pavilion Books. Photography by Haarala Hamilton. Available January 29.