Ilhan Mohamed Abdi’s aromatic Somali rice

“Bariis Somali is the recipe that first got people talking about my cooking. It’s one of those dishes that makes me feel deeply connected to my roots,” explains food writer Ilhan Mohamed Abdi. “The flavours are layered and, like many Somali dishes, it brings together sweet and savoury in a way that just makes sense. I’ve simplified the method so it comes together in just 15 minutes, but none of the flavour is lost. It’s usually served with meat, like suqaar (lamb or beef cubes with veg) or chicken, and don’t forget the banana, a classic Somali pairing that rounds everything out. You have to try it.”

Ilhan Mohamed Abdi’s aromatic Somali rice

Ingredients
(Serves 4-6)

300g basmati rice (I use sella basmati)
125ml sunflower oil
1 onion, half sliced and half finely chopped
1 tomato, finely chopped
1 chicken stock cube
1tbsp ground cumin
1 small cinnamon stick
4–5 cardamom pods, crushed open
Handful coriander
3–4 garlic cloves
70g sultanas (golden raisins)
¼tsp red or orange food colouring

Method:

1. Start by bringing a pot of water to the boil for the rice. While waiting, wash the rice thoroughly until the water runs clear. Once the water is boiling, add the rice and parboil for eight to 10 minutes, or until the grains are clear and cooked on the edges but still firm in the centre.

2. While the rice is parboiling, heat the sunflower oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the sliced onion and fry until golden brown and crispy, being careful not to overcook. Remove the onions from the oil and drain on paper towels.

3. In the same pot, add the chopped onion to the remaining oil and cook until softened. Add the tomato, chicken stock cube, cumin, cinnamon stick and cardamom pods (count the pods in order to remove them later). Stir and cook for four to five minutes until the tomatoes break down and the mixture becomes fragrant.

4. Crush the fresh coriander and garlic together using a pestle and mortar, then add this mixture to the pot. Cook for another two minutes, then add 125ml water to the mortar, rinsing it to capture any remaining flavour. Pour this into the pot and stir. Lower the heat, and leave to cook for two to three minutes.

5. Drain the rice and carefully layer it over the sauce in the pot, making sure not to mix the two. The rice should sit on top as a covering layer without fully blending into the sauce. Scatter the fried onions over the rice, then rinse the raisins in hot water to soften and arrange them on top. Dot the food colouring in one corner.

6. Cover the pot with a kitchen towel to absorb excess moisture, place the lid tightly on to trap the steam, and move the pot to the smallest burner. Cook on the lowest heat for eight to 10 minutes.

7. When ready, turn off the heat and remove the lid. A small plume of steam should escape – this indicates the rice is perfectly cooked. Let the rice cool slightly before mixing, allowing the food colouring to set.

The Ramadan Kitchen: Nourishing Recipes from Fast to Feast by Ilhan Mohamed Abdi is published in hardback by Pavilion Books. Photography by Haarala Hamilton. Available January 29.