Enjoying cycling bliss on an Offaly Greenway
OFFALY may only be the 18th largest county in Ireland, and many may say it's small, but sometimes it feels pretty big! This no doubt seems obvious to many living here but after blowing into the county five years ago I have only just cottoned onto the fact!
Another interesting feature of Offaly's geography is the 'east - west' nature of this bigness, from the eastern plains to the western 'coast'. I grew up in a northern county which had a more north - south orientation, therefore this west - east orientation is something of a novelty.
The county these days has an extensive road network running through it, which in turn is connected to the motorway network for national reach, but in the 19th and into the 20th century the grand canal linked west with east and Dublin. From 1835 until 1961 the Kilbeggan to Ballycommon canal spur provided additional reach and an economic artery to the midlands.
Last October, with the chill of late autumn upon us and a day to spare I decided to make myself more educated on east Offaly, and set out for Ballycommon. This was almost a one hour drive from Birr (see what I mean!). My final destination would be Kilbeggan with bicycle the mode of choice. The Kilbeggan canal spur reopened as a greenway in late 2022 and I spotted an opportunity for multiple experiences and a chance to enjoy some exercise in the open air.
The Ballycommon - Kilbeggan greenway is perhaps the best kept secret in Ireland's growing segregated cycle network.
At the Offaly end, the start of the Greenway is opposite the Ballycommon GAA club and Ballycommon Bakehouse and the cycle itself is 16km. It is possible to get to Ballycommon from Shannon Harbour along the entirety of the grand canal greenway path and keep going east towards Kildare and Dublin. One immediately becomes aware of the big impact that the canals must have had on this part of the world and the important trade connectivity they provided for trade routes towards Dublin.
My route followed the canal spur line through farmyards, fields, bog and under the M6 on the way to Kilbeggan. I've always felt a small sense of glee as I cycle over / under a motorway, because the opportunity to dissect a motorway at a slower pace of life is one worth taking. If anyone doubts this I strongly suggest cycling over the M50 on the Royal Canal aqueduct and pausing for a moment to compare the pace of the motorway traffic with a moment on a canal towpath on a bike.
Like I said, the weather was cold and my intention was to have multiple experiences, so the short cycle in the relatively light traffic from the Kilbeggan Harbour to the distillery was taken. The distillery staff kindly allowed the bikes to be parked in the courtyard and pointed us in the direction of the café / bar. The hot whiskeys were deeply appreciated. If anyone can advise of a more enjoyable way to warm up post a short cycle in the cold please let me know! Heated up, the return journey passed quickly and upon arrival back in Ballycommon I was glad to see that the café in the old pub beside the canal was open. It is great to see the economic rejuvenation that the canal greenway network brings to a community. The curry kept the body heated up on this frigid day.
There is a plan to connect Kilbeggan to Mullingar via a greenway along Lough Enell at some point in the future. This can't happen quickly enough because the end product will link the Royal Canal Greenway with the Grand Canal Greenway and with the Old Rail Trail. In geographical terms, Offaly would have a segregated cycle connection to Athlone, Mullingar, Longford and Dublin. That is surely a welcome nudge to think in less binary east / west or north / south terms and simply enjoy the possibilities in various directions the canal greenways will bring to people on shanks mare or two wheels. For the even more adventurous the Grand Canal terminus in Dublin is only a few pedal pushes from Dublin Port which has a Greenway around it, connecting to the Clontarf to Sutton coastal greenway. Ireland's green image is becoming multifaceted in the right direction and the opportunities for cycling Greenway bliss are widening!