Dior blooms with peplums, bustles and waterlily florals in Paris Fashion Week show

Dior returned to a historic Parisian stage for autumn/winter 2026, unveiling its collection at the Jardin des Tuileries – the 17th-century Baroque gardens on the Seine long associated with the house’s legacy.

Guests were seated on traditional green park chairs arranged in a circular formation around a central fountain, so everyone had an equal view, evoking the democratic spirit of the public gardens.

Models crossed a narrow bridge over water dotted with lilies, their reflections rippling beneath them – a fitting prelude to a collection shaped by florals and fluid structure.

“There’s something quite miraculous about water lilies, you can see why Monet was so obsessed with them,” said creative director Jonathan Anderson before the show.

Anderson, who has spoken about his fascination with orchids and the psychology of dress, appeared to extend that botanical dialogue here.

If Christian Dior was once dubbed the “designer of flowers”, Anderson’s vision felt less about decoration and more about form, as the Irish designer focused on silhouettes that unfurled, curled and coiled like petals in motion.

The show opened with ruffled tulle mini skirts that trailed into soft trains, some trimmed with silver sequins, others punctuated with polka dots.

Volume was immediate as hems lapped over one another in layered ripples, echoing the movement of water lilies shifting across the surface of a pond.

Peplums quickly emerged as a defining motif – a trend that’s permeated fashion month –as blazers were sharply cinched at the waist before flaring outward into sculpted hips and bustles, creating pronounced hourglass silhouettes.

Double-breasted jackets featured deep V-fronts and fluted sleeves, while wool overcoats echoed the same peplum silhouette.

The Edwardian influence was unmistakable, as high collars, small buttons and structured hips nodded to the early 20th century, perhaps when these gardens were in most use.

Yet aged denim along with flat biker boots disrupted any sense of overly-historic references.

Empire lines – a recurring Anderson signature it now seems – skimmed the torso before releasing into volume.

Strapless evening gowns ballooned outward at the hem and bustles and bows recurred throughout, reinforcing a silhouette built on cinched waists and amplified hips.

Texture was central. Feather trims – a dominant trend across the season – edged skirts and dresses, creating a softness to otherwise wholly sharp and architectural shapes.

Teddy-bear finishes adorned ruffles, while organza overlays and shimmering embellishments caught the afternoon light.

Water lily motifs appeared in appliqué florals exploding across dresses, and in swirling iridescent patterns rendered in corals, butter yellows and pale blues.

Baby pink – emerging as a key colour this season – featured alongside khaki and flashes of cobalt blue, injecting vibrancy into the predominantly neutral palette.

Trousers were not sidelined, however, as cream crepe styles offered fluid contrast to the structured jackets, while ballooned silhouettes were transformed into outerwear pieces, embellished and subtly shimmering.

Long embellished jeans paired with tightly waisted blazers further underlining Anderson’s interest in balancing refinement with everyday dressing.

With Edwardian motifs cropping up throughout, underskirts, visible beneath cropped blazers and high-low hems, hinted at a possible revival of layered foundation dressing.

The asymmetry and coiled construction throughout reinforced the idea of garments in motion – rippling, curling and blooming.

The setting amplified the message. Models moved beneath green pergolas with the Paris skyline and Eiffel Tower in the distance.

Among the attendees were Priyanka Chopra, Charlize Theron and Emily Ratajkowski, seated within the circular arrangement of park chairs that underscored the show’s communal staging.

Dior ambassador Anya Taylor-Joy also attended, wearing a fluid baby pink satin midi dress with a softly draped neckline and matching shawl detail, paired with white pointed heels – a delicate blush tone that is already shaping up to be one of spring’s defining colours.