Dreaming Eli pushes corsetry to the extreme at London Fashion Week

Dreaming Eli delivered one of the most striking and theatrical shows of the London Fashion Week schedule so far, presenting a collection of tight corsets, sheer tulle, lace and a stark palette of nudes and blacks.

Founded in 2021 by Sicilian designer Elisa Trombatore, the London-based womenswear label has built its identity around the idea of clothing as both a political and personal statement.

A graduate of Central Saint Martins’ MA Fashion programme, Trombatore centres Dreaming Eli on themes of female empowerment, sensuality and resilience, often drawing on her Sicilian heritage and its inherent dualities – softness and defiance, tradition and rebellion.

That tension was palpable on the candlelit runway of her autumn/winter 2026 collection, The Court of the Maddest, Merriest Things Alive, at the Beaconsfield Gallery in London.

Raw-edged lace appeared coiled like twine around boned corsets, most notably in a sheer ivory strapless look where delicate black hook fastenings ran vertically down the torso.

The corsetry was left deliberately exposed, with lace panels fraying into asymmetric garter details that trailed down the legs, creating a sense of controlled unravelling.

Elsewhere, a sculptural cream gown paired a tightly ruched corset bodice with an exaggerated draped skirt, the volume gathered low at the hips.

The model’s porcelain, doll-like make-up and towering white platform heels heightened the theatricality, evoking John Galliano’s Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024 couture show.

One model carried an apple aloft – a subtle nod to myth and temptation – highlighting the collection’s tones of romantic folklore.

A sheer blush gown offered a softer counterpoint. A structured corset, traced with black fastenings, gave way to layers of flowing tulle and lace sleeves that floated as the model walked, while a delicate butterfly rested in her hair. The look balanced transparency and structure, strength and fragility.

In another standout moment, a model’s face was partially veiled in lace beneath a crown of thorn-like branches, the intricate headpiece lending a devotional, almost martyr-like quality.

The garment itself was composed of cascading ruffles and exposed lacing running down the back, further emphasising Trombatore’s fascination with vulnerability made visible.

The show closed with Trombatore herself joining a model on the runway, both dressed in corseted mini silhouettes – one in black lace, the other in ivory – underscoring the collection’s core message of solidarity and female strength.

Models throughout emerged in lingerie-inflected silhouettes defined by structured corsets and sheer layering. Towering heels elongated the body while the corsets sculpted and at times distorted it, intensifying the collection’s architectural quality.

Together, the looks displayed a sense of strength and delicate sensuality in equal measure.

Romantic draping softened the severity. Silk and chiffon cascaded from tightly laced bodices, while Chantilly lace and tulle were layered to create depth and movement. In several looks, the corset acted as both centrepiece and anchor – pulling the waist inward before releasing into fluid skirts or trailing panels of sheer fabric.

The silhouettes were unmistakably feminine but not passive. Bustled shapes and nipped waists have dominated the runway this season, while Trombatore’s decision to remain within a narrow palette amplified the construction, allowing precise tailoring to take precedence.

While the looks were exaggerated, the show avoided tipping into excess, instead feeling intimate and self-aware, as though exploring the internal architecture of femininity rather than simply performing it.

Dreaming Eli’s pieces are made entirely in London, with many incorporating lace-up adjustability designed to accommodate different body shapes and extend a garment’s lifespan. That emphasis on longevity and thoughtful construction aligns with Trombatore’s broader philosophy of clothing as an evolving companion rather than disposable spectacle.

Since launching at London Fashion Week’s Discovery Lab in 2021, supported by the Isabella Blow Foundation, the brand has steadily built international recognition. It now shows biannually on schedule and has dressed high-profile figures including Kylie Jenner, Lizzo and Julia Fox. Yet despite its growing profile, the label retains an exclusive quality.

The sensuality remains central in this collection – sheer panels, exposed structure and sculpted waists are hallmarks of the brand – but there was a new assurance in the editing.

The reliance on nude and black, the repetition of corseted forms and the commanding presence of towering heels reinforced a cohesive narrative.