Ranie Saidi’s ayam kenduri kahwin – his grandmother’s matrimonial chicken

“This is my grandmother’s version of Malay ayam masak merah – chicken in a red sauce – which was always requested when she catered weddings. That’s how it came to be known as her ayam kenduri kahwin, or matrimonial chicken,” says food writer Ranie Saidi.

“I have fond memories of watching her marinate the chicken in turmeric and salt to remove any gamey smell and to give it that warm golden glow when frying. Her version was deep-fried, but I prefer to pan-fry mine so the skin turns crisp before meeting the sauce. The sauce itself is a comforting mix of coconut milk, chilli and, yes, ketchup – which adds that tomatoey depth.

“This dish is all about balance; nothing fancy, just honest home cooking where the harmony of flavours is what makes the dish shine. Keep tasting and season it to your liking. My favourite way to enjoy this dish is with plain white rice or summer rain rice.”

Ayam kenduri kahwin – matrimonial chicken

Ingredients:

(Serves 3–5)

4 chicken legs or 6 chicken drumsticks or 6 chicken thighs, bone in and skin on 1tbsp ground turmeric

1tbsp salt

30ml vegetable oil

For the sauce:

1tbsp dried chilli flakes

120ml just-boiled water

3 banana shallots

4 garlic cloves

2.5-cm/1-inch piece of fresh ginger

50ml tomato ketchup or tomato purée

400ml can coconut milk

1tbsp sugar

To serve:

4tbsp roughly chopped fresh coriander

Method:

1. Place the chicken in a large bowl and mix with the turmeric, salt and 30ml water to make a light watery paste. Set aside. In a separate bowl, soak the chilli flakes in the hot water for 10 minutes to soften. In a food processor, blend the softened chilli flakes with the soaking water and the shallots, garlic and ginger until smooth.

2. Heat the two tablespoons of oil in a large heavy-based pan (or casserole dish) over a medium heat. Working in batches, add the chicken to the pan, skin side down, and leave them to brown undisturbed for about five minutes on each side until golden. Once browned, transfer the fried chicken to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Repeat with the remaining pieces.

3. Using the same pan, pour in the blended paste and slowly stir for about eight to 10 minutes, or until the oil separates. If the paste seems too dry, add a splash of water to loosen it. Add the tomato ketchup or purée, coconut milk, sugar, salt and two tablespoons of water. Stir and bring to a gentle boil. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if needed – you’re looking for a balance of sweet, salty, sour, creamy and the tomatoey depth of the ketchup.

4. Return the chicken to the pan. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover with a lid and simmer for a further 15–20 minutes until the chicken is no longer pink at the bone and the juices run clear.

The Malay Cook by Ranie Saidi is published in hardback by Ryland Peters & Small, priced £25. Photography by Mowie Kay © Ryland Peters & Small. Available now