Diving in Kenya
Enjoy the underwater world of the Indian Ocean by learning to dive.
By John Fahey
Gasping for air in the glistening infinity pool of Kenya's Mnarani Beach Club, I decided clear scuba diving was not my bag.
Unable to get a mouthpiece between my lips without gagging, there was little hope of going under the water - let alone "diving" in the Indian Ocean off Kilifi creek, near Mombasa.
Relaxing poolside with a gin and tonic in the 35C heat - in early December - would be my concession to the waves.
Or, so I dreamed for a few seconds as a childhood fear of the water got the better of me.
I was in Kenya as a watersports virgin keen to dip my paddle for the first time.
Neilson, an operator specialising in winter and watersports holidays, found an absolute gem with the Mnarani.
The three-star hotel, 50km north of Mombasa, is an idyllic beachside retreat - complete with sailing, diving, windsurfing, canoeing, waterskiing, wakeboarding, snorkelling and mountain biking.
Every sport is on offer for the experienced and the, like me, totally inexperienced. But it wouldn't always be like that as my introductory pool session continued.
Tim Nderito-Rendell, Buccaneer Diving School manager, based on the hotel's beach, didn't seem too worried.
Eventually, I managed to force myself on, and soon, after learning the rudiments, I was chugging out to sea and nervously thinking what to do if I lost my airpipe or got a mask full of the ocean's turquoise finest.
We sailed out to Bofa Lagoon. It seemed in the middle of the Indian Ocean, but was only 20 minutes out and, thank God, only seven or eight metres deep.
Entering the water with a customary back roll, I loved feeling like a member of the SBS.
I held the anchor chain as Tim reassured me and monitored my descent. Calming down, I was privy to the hidden world of the sea bed.
I saw wrass, chocolate dips, lion fish, seaslugs, golden leaf fish and plenty more as well as a carnival of coral - psychedelic in its colours.
There are 4,600 species of fish living in Kenya's diving waters - the Red Sea has half that and the Caribbean just a quarter. And the coral is intact and untouched, like so much of Kilifi.
Fifty minutes exploring the seabed passed in a flash of neon fishes amid the bubbly, veg-like coral, and I emerged from the water feeling elated that I'd overcome my fears.
After lunch on the Mnarani's secluded and private sandy cove beach bar - where I could have lazed for days - it was time for dinghy sailing.
I had notions of Gucci deck shoes, pristine white linen trousers, a cap and a pastel jumper tied round my shoulders as I commanded the seas with a drink in my hand. But sailing involves muscles and learning to capsize as I learnt with a splash.
In a new three-man Laser Bahia dinghy, Neilson resort manager Jo Roberts had me criss-crossing the creek for an hour, learning to tack and gyb - turning up and down wind - and learning to say: "A flappy sail is not a happy sail."
Despite no experience of sailing, I was surprised by how much I enjoyed it - and what I learned in a short period.
Neilson includes Royal Yachting Association tuition and courses whether you're a novice aiming for your RYA level one certificate or an expert working on performance sailing.
I also sampled Kilifi's windsurfing - yet another debut. The tuition was excellent with a bit of theory to reinforce the practical. An hour of wobbling was punctuated by shouts of "I've got it!" before another headfirst plunge.
After the watersports the Mnarani is an ideal place to sit, eat, drink and talk. The hotel's excellent food was plentiful, varied and very tasty.
Most nights entertainment is provided too - I especially enjoyed the Mozambique Boys, a group of acrobats actually from Kilifi, and with the kind of talent that would win any of Britain's prime-time shows.
Every night after a hearty meal and several Tusker beers, I stumbled back to my air-conditioned ocean view room, where David, my "steward" fastened my mosquito net so effectively I wasn't bitten once.
For one meal at Kilifi Boatyard, we rode on mountain bikes through shanty villages. Kenya is achingly poor, and we cycled through sandy alleys where communities existed in ramshackle huts. Children, in rags, ran after my group waving.
"Give me a million dollars," shouted one, making his friends laugh. It was all good natured.
Our 10km bike ride took 40 minutes. The lazier option, a tuk tuk - a motorised rickshaw - costs about 1,000 shillings (8) for a return trip.
After lunch I kayaked against the current and wind, 3km back to the hotel. At last, I had found something at which I seemed to excel.
I loved the feel of the sun burning my arms as I fought against the water - muscles in my back and shoulders introducing themselves to me for the first time. Renewed and feeling proud I relaxed in my room before heading off to see out the afternoon in the infinity pool.
Worries of the world vanished as I rested my chin in the edge of the pool and gazed out at the ocean, the dhows coming back from a day's fishing, their stained sails billowing against a backdrop of hillside houses.
The creek is dotted with large, handsome homes - owned by rich Kenyans and ex-pats. The hotel, South African owned, was originally bought by Lord Delamere nearly 100 years ago and was an English officer' club.
For us, one great African adventure still remained. We left Kilifi to go on safari in Tsavo East national park.
We stayed at the luxurious Galdessa camp on the Galana river. As well as seeing an array of animals - the highlight was two cheetahs - Galdessa looks out onto the Yatta Plateau - the world's oldest fossilised lava flow.
At last, I understand the magical appeal of Africa.
Key facts
:: Best for: Couples, families, friends, anyone wanting a watersports holiday or relaxing break.
:: Time to go: Neilson operate year-round. Warmest months are Oct-Dec and Jan-April with maximum daytime temperatures of 28-35C. In coolest months of July/August, temperatures are still a pleasant 22-29C.
:: Don't miss: The chance to try a new activity - be it bird watching in a canoe in the mangroves or wakeboarding.
:: Need to know: Once-in-a-lifetime safari options are only a few hours' drive from the beach.
:: Don't forget: Insect repellent, and check you have six months left on your passport at the end of the holiday, otherwise you can't travel to Kenya.
Travel facts
John Fahey was a guest of Neilson Active Holidays, which offers seven nights' at the Mnarani Beachclub in Kilifi from 709, incl return flights ex-Gatwick into Mombasa, transfers, club board (daily breakfast, three lunches, four dinners), windsurfing, dinghy sailing, RYA tuition and RYA courses, guided mountain biking, kayaking, a "try dive" and Children's Clubs (5-14 years).
Three day safari option at Galdessa Camp starts at 586.
Departures ex-Manchester, from November, from 845. Neilson doesn't currently offer charter options ex-Scotland to Kenya.
Neilson Active Holidays (0845 070 3460 and visit www.neilson.co.uk).
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Wednesday 08 February 2012
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